This is the eighth diary installment of The Dkos Road Tour Series. (And now making an appearance on Saturdays rather than Sundays.) See explanation at the close of this diary. I trust you will find the information enjoyable and educational. Our destinations today will take us, first, to Western New Mexico, then close to that vicinity, and from there to West-Central Utah. As a reminder, the information herein is “layered.” Meaning, the reader chooses how much or how little read, graduating from the essentials to more in-depth details. By the way, if you enjoy the series, it would be good to have a recommendation from commentators. Gracias.
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EL Malpaís NATIONAL MONUMENT
Location/Geography: Western New Mexico. Cibola County. Closet City or Town: Grants. Area: 114,277 acres (462 km²). The elevation ranges from 6,500 to 8,300 feet (1,980 - 2,530 m).
Coordinates: 34º52’38”N 108º3’3”W (http://bitly/1nDwv2o)
Googleimages: http://bitly/1kzxHz9
Maps: http://bitly/1hTuhwl
√ Spotlight: A blackish landscape of badlands, like a scene from another planet. Primal volcanic eruptions deposited generous flows, creating lengthy lava tubes tall enough to walk through (ergo, bring a flashlight). Singular scenery (read, “eerie and otherworldly”). Largest natural arch in North America located in the monument Focus: human history, arches, and volcanism.
√ Snapshot: El Malpaís (pronounced “L mal-pie-ees”) NM is a rough landscape entirely covered with a serrated lava foundation that isn’t easy to walk on. The designation, “El Malpaís,” is a Spanish term for badlands. The lava beds were produced from local eruptions dating from 115,000 to 3,000 years ago. Adjoined to the Zuñi-Bandera volcanic field, lava flows here have since been covered with scattered trees and bushes and sort of mimics Flagstaff's Sunset Crater’s lava flows. Although large areas of El Malpais is devoid of vegetation, some plant species have managed to root and sprout. Several cinder cones and smaller craters are found in the area, mainly along the western boundary. What’s clear from the heavily fluted foundation throughout the monument is how large flows of magma occurred here in succession. The overall flow also filled a large basin rimmed by higher sandstone, which forms the wind-carved bluffs around much of the monument. This rugged contour landscape of formerly molten rock has created an eerie world of extensive lava tube caves, cinder cones, pressure ridges and natural bridges.
√ Guided Tour Essentials: Other than numerous lava tubes underground, some of which contain ice year around, these formed conduits can be miles/kilometers long and are free to explore. The extensive, wide pavement and its intricate maze of so-called lava tubes are the results of magma flows. The spacious tubes are also hollowed and tall enough to walk upright. To date, 17 miles (27 km) have been discovered and explored, which makes El Malpais the longest known system of lava tubes in North America. Where lava once traveled on the surface, visitors wearing headlamps (a necessary item) get to see what this dynamic force of nature has created. Another area of interest in the monument is La Ventana Arch (the largest natural arch in New Mexico).Another landmark worth visiting is The Narrows, whose distinctive formation rises like a fortress of hewn stone. The cracks and fissures in this setting were entirely formed by water. Calved off chunks now lie on the ground or are propped up as if leaning for support. Additionally, there's a nearby photographic scenic overlook from the high bluffs on this eastern side of the malpais.
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Human History: For more than ten thousand years, people have interacted with this bleak landscape. As unforgiving and hostile as this badlands backdrop appears, a closer look reveals how diverse flora and fauna have adapted to the exotic environment. Prehistoric cairns, ruins and 19th-century homesteads reveal how humans have survived in this primeval setting for many centuries. Such historical and archaeological facts engender reminders of the distant past. These cultural resources (artifacts) run the gambit from prehistoric dwellers to contemporary Native Americans, including Puebloan people of Acoma, Laguna, and Zuñi; also, New Mexico's Ramah Navajo tribe.
Directions: Traveling 70 miles (112 km) west of Albuquerque, take Exit 89, east of Grants, to NM 117 which forms the eastern boundary and leads directly to the Visitor Center. West of Grants, take Exit 80 via NM 53 which leads to the northwestern boundary 23 miles (37 km) further south.
Contact Information: El Malpaís National Monument, 123 East Roosevelt Avenue, Grants NM 87020. Phone (Northwest New Mexico Visitor Center): 505-876.2783. For Monument Headquarters, phone: 505-285.4640 ext. 0; Fax 876.2791
Here's my recommendation for a follow-up URL: http://1.usa.gov/1lkuxiZ
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EL MORRO NATIONAL MONUMENT
Location/Geography: Western New Mexico. Cibola County. Closet City or Town: Ramah; Grants. Area: 1,278 acres (5,170 square meters). Elevation: 7,200 feet (2,194 m). High desert mesa country near the Zuñi Mountains.
Coordinates: 35º2’18”N 108º21’12”W (http://bitly/1nd0DzO)
Google images: http://bitly/1puIzGk
Maps: http://bitly/1q4xMAw
√ Spotlight: A variety of historical signatures inscribed on a prehistoric rock face. An ancient pueblo though mostly not excavated. Ancient ruins on top that’s worth the hike getting there. Focus: human history, Puebloan Indian insurrection, and archaeological ruins.
√ Snapshot: El Morro NM is located on a primitive east-west trail in western New Mexico. The main landmark feature is a conspicuous sandstone promontory with a pool of potable water at its base. For earlier travelers passing through the region, this reliable waterhole was a rare, shaded oasis in a typically arid landscape (a high desert), which for this reason, the setting was marked on maps. Over thousands of years, sojourners have stopped here and inscribed their names, and some adding other particulars for the sake of leaving a memento for others to see. There are also Ancestral Puebloan petroglyphs and carvings. While some inscriptions are faded (and continuing to fade), many can still be read, some dating to the 17th-century. The oldest Anglo inscription is by the Spanish Colonial Governor, Don Juan de Oñate y Salazar (1552–1626). He was also the founder of various settlements throughout the Southwest. Administered by the NPS, El Morro was proclaimed a national monument in 1906.
√ Guided Tour Essentials: At the top of the bluff, and overlooking the monument, is an Ancestral Puebloan ruin, A'ts'ina, meaning the place of writings on rock. Between approximately 1276 to 1350, up to some 1500 people lived in this spacious pueblo of 875 rooms. The pueblo was near the only water source for many miles and built on top of a nearly impenetrable bluff for defense purposes. Thus, a strategically located citadel that afforded protection for the inhabitants. Partially excavated in the 1950s, only a small corner of the ruin was ever excavated. More recently in time, it was the Spaniards came to this region in the 15th-century. These explorers called it El Morro––The Headland. Centuries later, Anglos also came up with their name––Inscription Rock. Indeed, this setting was visited by different cultures over many centuries. Of course, Inscription Rock's uniform face served as a handy billboard made of sandstone, and travelers who stopped to rest and partake of the fresh water realized the value of the site based on this rare resource in a typically desert environs. Some even left their signatures.
Human History: If contemporary visitors to the monument have the time, there are some two thousand inscriptions to peruse. Names, dates, and stories of each person’s trek can also be read much like a disorganized chronicle. Perhaps the most famous signing was Oñate’s words carved by a sharp dagger: Pasó por aqui, el adelantado Don Juan de Oñate del descubrimiento de la mar del sur a 16 de Abril de 1605. The inscription in English reads: "Passed by here, the adelantado Don Juan de Oñate from the discovery of the sea of the south the 16th of April of 1605." (Adelantado refers to a privileged military title.) More than likely, it was made by a soldier who, tasked with the tedious chore, used his dagger. Despite the elegant and careful carving, some historians now think the explorer did not, in fact, reach the Gulf of California, as this body of water is now called. Governor Oñate also passed by here several times. Mostly, he attempted to recoup the personal fortune invested in his expeditions from Mexico (which was then called “New Spain”) to colonize the territory previously founded by the Puebloans.
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Trails: There's a relatively easy path leading to a pool called the Inscription Trail. Its sinuous pathway passes Spanish and Anglo inscriptions, as well as scores of petroglyphs. Once past the inscriptions, the route leads to the top of the bluff via the Headland Trail. From this 250-foot (76 m) elevation, hikers find exceptional views of the Zuñi Mountains, the volcanic craters of the El Malpais landscape and the El Morro Valley. A more strenuous 2-mile (3.2 km) hike winds up the sides of the bluff, also leading to the summit. From that high perspective, there is a delightful view of a box canyon enclosed by El Morro. Across the top of the bluff are remnants of non-excavated and excavated pueblo dwellings, kivas, and other archaeological structures. From here, a visitor can look out at today's landscape but also see into the past. Perhaps one’s imagination will stir up the dust of a thirsty caravan of travelers coming from the east. One might also hear oxen bawling as they strain against their heavy wooden yokes, or envision tired horses and mules surging forward at the smell of nearby water. Certainly, anyone passing this way had to stop. The necessity was also pragmatic: this was the only standing water for many miles around.
MoreBonus Details: The first inscription at El Morro carved by an Anglo, Lt. J. H. Simpson and R. H. Kern in 1849, has a spelling error. The misspelled inscription reads inciptions, with the 'r' inserted afterward. Trivia like this can sometimes be entertaining. Certainly, English grammar teachers feel this way.
Directions: From Albuquerque, take I-40 west to Grants, Exit 80, then south on Hwy. 53 for 42 miles (67.5 km) to the monument entrance. From Flagstaff, take I-40 east to Gallup, Exit 20, then south on Hwy. 602 for 31 miles (50 km). Turn east (left) onto Hwy. 53. Monument entrance is 25 miles (40 km).
Contact Information: El Morro National Monument, HC 61 Box 43, Ramah NM 87321. Phone (the Visitor Center): 505-783-4226 ext. 0. Monument Headquarters: Phone: 505-285-4640 ext. 0; Fax 783-4689
Here's my recommendation for a follow-up URL: http://1.usa.gov/1lmoBf9
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FISHER TOWERS RECREATION AREA
Location/Geography: West-Central Utah. Grand County. Closet City or Town: Moab. Area: unknown. Elevation: 4,720 to 5,400 feet (1,438 to 1,645 m). Part of the Arches and Canyonlands topography.
Coordinates: 38.7240ºN 109.3083ºW (http://bitly/1jqQrRZ)
Google images/maps: http://bitly/1iwU8W3
√ Spotlight: An erosive, desiccated and very scenic landscape. Less visited than other nearby national parks and monuments. Popular site with hikers and climbers. Adjacent to the Colorado River and a fabulous geologic landscape worth the proverbial look-see. Many movies made here, mostly Westerns. Focus: erosion, geology, hiking trails.
√ Snapshot: Administered by the BLM, Fisher Towers Recreation Site is one of the most scenic and eroded landscapes along the Colorado River. With its array of natural towers, it is indeed a singular setting caked with a stucco of reddish mud high above a maze of usually red and purple hued canyons. The tinctures result from varying amounts of hematite, which is a mineral form of iron oxide. For its rough-hewn beauty and stunning backdrop, this recreational site relatively close to Moab doesn't draw the crowds of people that frequent Arches and Canyonlands national parks. Still, this declaration is good for obvious reasons. Apart from being one of the least crowded and most appealing backdrops, Fisher Tower’s appeal attracts hikers and rock climbers, as well as photography buffs. A moderate one-way 2.2-mile (3.5 km) trail goes along the base of the towers and spires to a scenic overlook of Professor Valley and the Colorado River.
√ Guided Tour Essentials: Named for a miner who lived near this locale in the 1880s, the sedimentary backdrop of Fisher Towers is renowned as a subject for photography and classic rock climbing routes. The entire landscape adorned with its fetching landmarks (i.e., the towers) boasts one of the most outstanding scenic features of the Colorado River corridor through this region. Pinnacles of rough rock formations soar above a maze of red and purple-hued canyons; a setting so quiet and austere that it haunts the senses. Visitors come to gawk and enjoy a sweeping view of the Towers; also, take in the view of Castle Rock, whose cliff-enclosed Richardson Amphitheater is just south of a larger mesa denoting the parent formation of Fisher Towers environs. However, the main formation only partly emerges from the mesa. In a geologist’s lingo, the erosional downsizing of the landscape is what makes this setting what it is. The nearby Colorado River in this sector is like a wide, and usually muddy, artery coursing through Mesozoic Era formations marking an utterly parched backdrop. With the lovely backdrop of the La Sal Mountains (12,721 feet/3,877 m), especially when blanketed with snow, this major laccolith (i.e., mountain-like though not a mountain per se) presents quite a picturesque contrast to the hotter and drier desert terrain below. Defined as a recreational site, Fisher Towers utility for visitors is best served as a long and scenic day tour. For those desiring to spend a night in this quiet setting (read “away from the madding tourista crowds”), campsites are primitive in the sense there is no potable water. Thus, it’s one of those BYOW kinds of places. A bonus for those who spend the night is the excellent star-gazing due to the remoteness of the setting, with no interference from regional town or city lighting.
Compelling Names: The main sites here are composed of three major fins of rock that extend from the northeast closer to the mesa, then fan out to the southwest and into a desert valley. These giant fins are between 1,000 and 2,000 feet (304 and 609 m) long and separated from each other by about 1,000 feet (304 m). Each contains multiple towers, some of which have been named. The easternmost section of the northernmost fin is dominated by a tower known as King Fisher. The ridge line of the fin drops considerably before reaching the western formation called Ancient Arts, which is composed of four separate summits. The most striking of the four is the Cork Screw summit. The middle fin is split into two very distinct towers known as Echo Tower in the east and Cottontail in the west. The southernmost fin, called The Titan, marks the greatest elevation and prominence in the recreation area. The eastern portion of this southern fin is the lesser-known Oracle, which physically connects to the mesa. There are also many other named structures in the area. For example, the Cobra and Sundial are both found between King Fisher and Echo Tower. Each consists of a balanced rock perched above smaller supports. Lizard Rock, a 60-foot (18 m) tower, is another structure near the parking lot.
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Bonus Details: Fisher Towers and the Colorado River corridor in this sector may look familiar to some visitors; that is as a geologic backdrop well off the beaten path as seen through the lens of a movie camera. The fact is, this beguiling mise en scène environs was (and still is) popular with movie directors, including those who film commercials. For classic Western movies, filmed sequences appear in Wagon Master, Against A Crooked Sky, The Comancheros, Rio Grand, Rio Conchos, and Warlock (to mention only some). One scene with Richard Boone in Against A Crooked Sky was filmed next to the Fisher Towers Recreation Site parking area. The 24post at the parking area is the main stop along the route of the self-guided Moab Area Movie Locations Auto Tour. From the 24 movie tour post, located next to the access road, the prominent hillside in The Comancheros, starring John Wayne, is visible. This locale is where the film crew constructed an elaborate Spanish-style hacienda. The movie concluded with a fiery attack on a covered wagon near the hacienda. Of course, the adage “Build it and they will come!” does not apply here. Hence, after filming the movie, the state set and props were removed.
Directions: From Moab, Hwy. 128 (22 miles/35.4 km) off Hwy. 191. As a road description, Hwy. 128 courses through Castle Valley, which skirts along the Colorado River between I-70 and Hwy. 191. Castleton Tower, which is a notable regional landmark, is visible approximately 6 miles (9.6 km) to the southwest.
ContactInformation: BLM Moab Field Office, 82 East Dogwood, Moab UT 84532. Phone: 435-259.2100
Here's my recommendation for a follow-up URL: http://on.doi.gov/1lvbgj7
FYI: This latest installment of THE DKOS ROAD TOUR SERIES provides an excerpt from the larger text, SCENIC ICONS OF THE SOUTHWEST (http://amzn.to/2on3z89). The soft cover 8.5 x 11 format (491 pages) provides the same information but also includes a thorough background on geology, natural and human history and miscellaneous subject matter. Additionally, there is an Android app available and the less expensive Kindle version. For information about myself and my books featured on Amazon, feel free to drop by www.richholtzin.com and leave a comment. I also write under the nom de plume, RK ALLEMAN. For more background about this tour series, please read the 3/29/2017 diary, HIT THE ROAD TOUR SERIES: An Introduction.
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Another installment of this series will be next Sunday. Hopefully, every SATURDAY (no longer Sundays) there will be a trio of new scenic icons for the reader’s enjoyment and enlightenment. (For those who want to know where they’re going in these upcoming tours, the previously mentioned introduction lists a Table of Contents (in alphabetical order).
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About The Author: Rich, who writes under the nom de plume, RK ALLEMAN, has worked in the field as an outdoors educator and interpreter for the likes of the Grand Canyon Field Institute (nearly 20 years), Northern Arizona University (Flagstaff), and Yavapai College (Prescott, AZ). For nearly 40 years, he has backpacked some 8,000 miles, not including hiking sorties. Most of his works focus on the geosciences (mainly, geology, archaeology, and ecology), human and natural history applicable to the Colorado Plateau Province (aka the “Four Corners Region of the Southwest).
Previous Diaries:
Intro diary http://bit.ly/2nu738O
1st diary http://bit.ly/2opAB6Y (Acoma Pueblo, Anasazi Heritage Center, Antelope Canyon)
2nd diary http://bit.ly/2oe49Cm (Arches NP, Aztec Ruins, Bandelier NM)
3rd diary http://bit.ly/2pFVvMo (Bryce Canyon, Butler Wash, Canyon de Chelly)
4th diary http://bit.ly/2oVFGDQ (Canyonlands NP, Canyon of the Ancients, Capitol Reef NP)
5th diary http://bit.ly/2qlfctX (Carlsbad NP, Casa Grande Ruins, Casa Malpaís)
6th diary http://bit.ly/2qG5Vje (Chaco Canyon, Chimney Rock, Comb Ridge/Wash)
7th diary http://bit.ly/2qFL9k6 (Coral Pink Sand Dunes, Coronado Monument, Crow Canyon)
8th diary http://bit.ly/2pZuacC (Dead Horse SP, Death Valley NP, Dominguez, Escalante Ruins)